The first gem-set Royal Oak was the 18k yellow-gold Ref. 8756, featuring 80 diamonds on the rim of its bezel, which was released in the late 1970s, not long after the introduction of the inaugural Royal Oak, the Ref. 5402ST.
The fact that Audemars Piguet didn’t wait too long to produce a diamond-set reference is a testimony to the Swiss brand's historic upmarket clientele as well as its open attitude toward experimenting with the Royal Oak design.
A 2022 Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Concept 'Rainbow' Flying Tourbillon Ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01-A that's available now via Phillips Perpetual for CHF 244,276.
Vintage and neo-vintage gem-set Royal Oaks are rare finds and highly sought after among collectors. Due to the Royal Oak's ultra-thin case, any diamonds could initially be set only around the bezel, rather than on top of it.
Diamonds were the natural first choice for the Royal Oak, but over the years, Audemars Piguet has used various precious stones, including emeralds and rubies. Of course, gem-setting has moved from the bezel rim to almost everywhere on the dial, case, and bracelet.
One particularly memorable example of a vintage gem-set Royal Oak is the Ref. 25659BA, a diamond-set openworked perpetual calendar made in a run of only four pieces between 1988 and 1995.
A 2022 Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Concept 'Rainbow' Flying Tourbillon Ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01-A that's available now via Phillips Perpetual for CHF 244,276.
Gem- and diamond-set Royal Oaks are far more common in Audemars Piguet’s contemporary catalogue. A quick look at the brand’s website currently turns up 26 gem-set Royal Oaks.
The watch we're highlighting today, however, is not currently accessible on Audemars Piguet's digital catalogue. It's the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, featuring a gorgeous "rainbow" setting (Ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01-A).
A 2022 Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Concept 'Rainbow' Flying Tourbillon Ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01-A that's available now via Phillips Perpetual for CHF 244,276.
A total of 468 brilliant-cut, multi-colored gemstones of 12 different types are set on almost every visible surface of the 18k white gold 38.5mm × 11.4mm watch, both on the exterior case and the exposed sections of the dial inside the sapphire crystal – a small number of stones have even been set on the flying tourbillon cage!
Oh, and don't forget the 44 multi-colored stones, perfectly set on the exterior of the 18k white gold folding clasp, paired with a hand-stitched alligator strap in dark blue. The crown at three o'clock is also set with a translucent sapphire cabochon.
The movement inside the watch is the manual-wind Audemars Piguet calibre 2951, with a flying tourbillon and 77 hours of running autonomy. It beats at 3 Hz (21,600 vph), runs in 17 jewels, and comprises 225 components.
A 2022 Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Concept 'Rainbow' Flying Tourbillon Ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01-A that's available now via Phillips Perpetual for CHF 244,276.
This is the first example of this specific Royal Oak Concept to appear at Phillips. The watch dates to 2022, is in superb condition, and comes complete with its full suite of accessories, including the original box and an additional rubber strap.
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department’s Senior Editorial Manager. He’s based in Geneva.
